दापोली : प्रवीण शिंदे

कोकणातील पर्यटन, येथील निसर्ग सौंदर्य याचे वर्णन अनेकांनी विविध शैलीत केले आहे, येथील पर्यटनावर बातमी असो किंवा पर्यटनाची मांडणी असो अशा वेळेस दापोली तालुक्यातील पर्यटनाचा वारसा लाभलेल्या आंजर्लेचे (Anjarle) नाव अगदी अग्रगण्य घेतले जाते.  कड्यावरचा गणपती या मुळे येथील पर्यटनाची आणि आंजर्ले गावाची ओळख सर्वदूर पसरली आहे.तर येथील खाद्यसंस्कृती देखील तितकीच परिचित आहे.

आंजर्ले निसर्गरम्य गाव (Anjarle)

निसर्गरम्य गाव म्हणून आंजर्ले गावची विशेष ओळख आहे. या गावाला लाभलेला विस्तीर्ण समुद्रकिनारा त्याच बरोबर या गावाला स्वतःचा खास ऐतिहासिक आणि सांस्कृतिक वारसा देखील लाभला आहे. या गावाच्या नावाबाबत अनेकजण आख्यायिका सांगतात. पूर्वी या आंजर्ले गावचे नाव अजरालय असे होते. या नावाचे अनेक अर्थ असताना त्या अजरालयचे आंजर्ले असे कालांतराने नामकरण झाले. आज पर्यटनाच्या पटलावर आंजर्ले गाव म्हणून परिचित आहे. या गावात ‘अजरालयेश्वर’ या  नावाचे शिवमंदिर आहे. या अजरालयेश्वर शिवमंदिरावरून देखील या गावाला नाव पडले असावे असे देखील येथील जाणकार मंडळी सांगत आहेत. प्रत्येक गावची खास अशी दंतकथा असते तशीच या गावाची देखील दंतकथा  आहे.

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दापोली : आंजर्लेचे निसर्ग सौंदर्य विलोभनीय

या दंतकथेनुसार एक योगी बाबाने केळशी, आंजर्ले Anjarle व मुरुड ही गावे त्या काळात वसविली. त्याचा निश्चित कालखंड सांगता येत नसला तरी गावची रचना ही राजेशाही पद्धतीची आहे. त्या काळात आदिलशाही साम्राज्य असल्याने साधारण १६व्या शतकात ही  गावे वसवली असावीत. असा अंदाज बांधला जात आहे. आंजर्ले, आडे, केळशी, मुरुड ही गावे तेव्हा पासून समुद्राच्या काठाला वसलेली असल्याने या गावावर जनजिऱ्याच्या सिद्दीच्या धाडी अनेकदा पडत असतं. त्यामुळे येथे कायम गाव व्यवस्थेत अस्थिरता असायची.

“आजबाई सारवा, उद्याबाई तारवा”

निर्माण झालेल्या या अस्थिरतेवर गावात “आजबाई सारवा, उद्याबाई तारवा” ही म्हण रूढ झाली होती. याचा अर्थ आज घराची सारवासारव वगैरे कामे आहेत पण उद्या काय होईल सांगता येत नाही, कधी हबशी सैनिक येऊन पडकून तारवांतून घालून घेऊन जातील सांगता येत नाही असा होतो. त्यानंतर कालांतराने या गावची रचना टप्प्याटप्प्याने होत गेली.

१९४० मध्ये आंजर्ले ग्रामपंचायतीची स्थापना (Anjarle-Gram panchayat)

आंजर्ले येथील बिरवाडी हा सर्वात आधी वसलेला भाग. याच भागात सर्वात महत्वाची ग्रामदेवता असून त्याच देवतेच्या नावावरून या भागाला नाव मिळाले असावे. कारण बिरवाडी हा ‘बहिरववाडी’ याचा अपभ्रंश आहे. गावातील मानस्थाने याच भागात आहेत. पुढे कातळकोंड, पेठपाखाडी, कोपरी, भंडारवाडा, नवानगर, उभागर, ताडाचा कोंड, चिखलतळे असे भाग कालाबरोबर वसत गेले. ही रचना प्रामुख्याने बलुतेदारी पद्धतीवर होती. १९४० मध्ये आंजर्ले ग्रामपंचायतीची स्थापना झाली. त्या पूर्वी गावचे प्रशासन प्रामुख्याने दोन संघटनांच्याखाली चालत असे – १) धार्मिक प्रमुख (पंचमाने) २) सामाजिक प्रमुख. यातील पंचांना बराच मान असायचा. यातील मान व काम वंशपरंपरागत चालत असत. गावाच्या सांस्कृतिक इतिहासात मंदिरांचे विशेष महत्व आहे. यातील कालभैरव अथवा बहिरी हा ग्रामरक्षक देवांपैकी प्रमुख देव होय. या देवाची स्थापना कधी व कोणी केली यासंबंधी निश्चित माहिती उपलब्ध नाही, परंतु त्याचे महत्व लक्षात घेता गावाबरोबरच देवालयाची स्थापना झाली असावी.

ग्रामदेवता श्री सावणेकरीण

महत्वाच्या कामांसाठी ग्रामस्थ देवाला कौल लावतात. चैत्र वद्य प्रतिपदेला यात्रेच्या काळात देवाला चांदीचा मुखवटा लावण्यात येतो. श्रावण महिन्यात अखंड नामसप्ताह असतो व माघ वद्य पंचमीला श्री भैरवादि पाच देवतांचे चांदीचे मुखवटे एका बैल्यावर लावून त्याची मिरवणूक घरोघरी पूजा घेत गावभर फिरते. यानंतरची प्रमुख ग्रामदेवता श्री सावणेकरीण. गावच्या उत्तर भागास सावणे म्हटले जाते, त्याच भागात हे देवालय आहे. ही देवता उत्तराभिमुख आहे. ही गावावर उत्तरेकडून येणाऱ्या संकटाचे निवारण करते अशी श्रद्धा आहे. ओढ्याच्या काठावर, आंबा काजूंच्या बागांच्या सानिध्यात हे सुंदर कौलारू मंदिर आहे. मार्गशीर्ष शुद्ध प्रतिपदा अर्थात देव दिवाळीला इथला उत्सव असतो, याच काळात देवीला मुखवास चढवला जातो. या बरोबरच पेठकरीण (पेठपाखडीत) पाश्चिमाभिमुख व दारूवटकरीण (बहिरी मंदिराजवळ) पूर्वाभिमुख या दोन ग्रामदेवता आहेत. या बरोबरच गावात श्री लक्ष्मी नारायण मंदिर , श्री सिद्धेश्वर मंदिर (कोपरी), श्री रामजी मंदिर, गणपती मंदिर व श्री हरिहरेश्वर मंदिर (पेठपाखाडी), श्री दत्त मंदिर (उभागर), श्री विठ्ठल मंदिर (भंडारवाडा) अशी देवस्थाने आहेत. या सर्व मंदिरांमध्ये वार्षिक उत्सव ग्रामस्थ मोठ्या उत्साहाने साजरे करतात. Anjarle गावचे अजून एक महत्त्वाचे देवस्थान म्हणजे श्री दुर्गादेवी मंदिर. या देवालयात गंडकी शिळेची अष्टभुजा महिषासुरमर्दिनीचे सुंदर मूर्ती आहे. या मूर्तीची स्थापना आषाढ शुद्ध प्रतिपदा, शके १६५३ (इ.स – १७३१) मध्ये करण्यात आली. या आधी एक वेगळी मूर्ती होती त्यामुळे देऊळ याहूनही जुने असावे.

कड्यावरील गणपती मंदिर

देवीचा वार्षिक उत्सव चैत्र शुद्ध प्रतिपदा म्हणजेच गुढीपाडवा ते चैत्र वद्य चतुर्थीपर्यंत असतो. यातील रथयात्रेला विशेष महत्व आहे. (या उत्सवाविषयी अधिक जाणून घेण्यासाठी येथे क्लीक करा) पर्यटकांचे आकर्षण आणि भाविकांचे श्रद्धा स्थान म्हणून श्री कड्यावरील गणपती मंदिराची वेगळी ओळख आहे. प्राचीन काळी समुद्रकिनारी असलेले मंदिर समुद्रगर्क झाल्यावर मंदिर जवळच डोंगरावर बांधण्यात आले. त्याचा जीर्णोद्धार शके १७०६ (इ.स. १७८४) मध्ये झाला. मंदिराची नयनरम्य बांधणी, परिसर, समोरचे तळे, टेकडीवरील उच्च स्थान, भोवतालचे सृष्टीसौंदर्य, समुद्राची गाज आणि अखंड झुळझुळ वाहणारा वारा या सर्व गोष्टी फारच चित्ताकर्षक असल्याने मंदिर केवळ आंजर्ले गावचेच नाही तर संपूर्ण कोकणाचे भूषण झाले आहे. या देवळातील वार्षिक उत्सव माघी चतुर्थीला असतो. यावेळी भक्तांची गर्दी आणि उत्साह भरून वाहत असतो. गावकऱ्यांनी वर्षानुवर्षे चालत आलेला सांस्कृतिक वारसा सक्रियतेने जपला आहे. गावातील प्रत्येक सण उत्सव पारंपरिक पद्धतीने, त्याची विशिष्टता जपत साजरा होतो.

श्री दुर्गादेवी उत्सव

श्री दुर्गादेवी उत्सव हा गावचा मोठा उत्सव त्याचबरोबर गणेशोत्सव आणि शिमगा हे महत्वाचे सण. गणेशोत्सवात आवर्तने, भजनं, कीर्तने, असे कार्यक्रम चालतात. गावातील गणपती मिरवणूका खालूबाजाच्या तालावर चालतात. सर्व गणपतींचे विसर्जन समुद्रात होते. गणेशोत्सवानंतर कोकणवासीयांचा प्रिय सण म्हणजे शिमगा. फाल्गुन शुद्ध अष्टमीपासून श्री भैरवाचा काटखेळ ताडाच्या कोंडावरील मंडळी काढतात. या दिवसापासून वेगवेगळ्या गावच्या पालख्या गावात येतात. सर्व पालख्यांमध्ये श्री देवी सताई च्या पालखीला विशेष मान आहे. फाल्गुन शुद्ध चतुर्दशीला ही पालखी गावभर फिरते. काटखेळ आणि सताईच्या पालखीची भेट त्यादिवशी रात्री उशिरा भंडारवाडा येथे होते.

आंजर्ले खाडी पूल

हा सोहळा प्रेक्षणीय असतो. होळी पौर्णिमेला श्रीभैरवाची होळी देवळासमोरील शेतात लागते, त्यानंतर बाकी वाड्यातल्या होळी लागतात. एक पर्यटन केंद्र म्हणून आंजर्ले गाव नावारूपाला येत आहे. गेल्या २ दशकात गावात वेगाने बदल झाले. यामागचे मुख्य कारण ठरला आंजर्ले खाडी पूल. हा पूल होण्यापूर्वी आंजरल्यात येणे मोठा प्रवास असायचा. बंदरावरून होडीने गावात यायला लागत असे. त्यात खूप भरती किंवा खूप ओहती, प्रचंड पाऊस, समुद्राचे उधाण या कारणाने हा प्रवास खडतर होत असे. गाडी रस्ता कादिवली मार्गे (वाकडा आंजर्ले मार्गे) दापोली आंजर्ले अंतर ४५ किमी होते, एका पुलाने हे अंतर २२ किमी केले! गावचे दळणवळण सोपे झाल्याने पर्यटक येऊ लागले.

कासवांच्या संवर्धनासाठी तरुण कासव मित्र

समुद्रात मासेमारी जोरदार चालते. मच्छिमार बांधव त्यांच्या होड्या घेऊन खोल समुद्रात जातात. त्याप्रमाणे मोठ्या प्रमाणात मालवाहू जहाजे समुद्रातून प्रवास करत असतात. या सर्व समुद्री वाहतुकीला दिशादर्शन करण्यासाठी गावात नवीन दीपगृह उभारण्यात आले आहे. या दीपगृहाने आंजरल्याच्या सौंदर्यात भर पडली असून एक नवीन पर्यटन स्थळ निर्माण झाले आहे. अथांग पसरलेला समुद्र आणि शांत, स्वच्छ किनारा मोहिनी घालतोच त्याच बरोबर थंडीत प्रजोत्पादनासाठी येणाऱ्या ऑलिव्ह रिडले जातीच्या कासव माद्या आणि फेब्रुवारी – मार्च महिन्यात त्यातून बाहेर येणारी शेकडो लहान लहान पिल्ले, त्यांची समुद्रात जायची लगबग सर्वच बघण्यासारखे असते. या कासवांच्या संवर्धनासाठी गावातील तरुण कासव मित्र विशेष काळजी घेतात, मेहनत घेतात. पिल्ले बाहेर येण्याच्या काळात कासवांचे संरक्षण आणि पर्यटकांना आकर्षण यासाठी कासव महोत्सव आयोजित केला जातो. याच बरोबर नानाविध प्राणी आणि पक्षी गावात बघायला मिळतात. यात विशिष्ट असे समुद्री गरुड  आणि धनेश हे पक्षी आणि थंडीत येणारे विदेशी पाहुणे सिगल्स थंडीच्या काळातच रात्री निळ्या लाटा  पाहायला मिळतात. नारळी पोफळीच्या बागांमध्ये, समुद्र किनारी वसलेले हे टुमदार गाव, त्यातील कौलारू घरे, ऐतिहासिक मंदिरे, पारंपरिक उत्सव, ग्रामस्थ ही सर्व विशिष्टता, ही संस्कृती जपत आहे, नुसती जपतच नाही तर पुढच्या पिढ्यांना जपायला शिकवत आहे.

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